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6 threads
Stripped a lug nut on my Camaro yesterday trying to remove stuck studs. Spent 3 hours learning what NOT to do. The correct approach: PB Blaster the day before, 6-point socket only (never 12-point on stuck fasteners), breaker bar not impact, and heat from a propane torch on the hub — not the nut. If the socket is already rounded, a Lisle nut remover set ($35 at Harbor Freight) will save you.
After getting a $400 alignment quote I decided to learn the string alignment method. Took about 4 hours the first time. You need a quality tape measure, some string, and patience. For toe I got within 0.05 degrees of the shop spec. For camber you need a digital angle gauge. Can't do caster at home easily. Result: saved $350 and now understand my suspension setup way better.
Building out my home garage for serious suspension and wheel work. Already have: quality floor jack, jack stands, basic hand tools. What else is absolutely necessary? I'm planning coilover installs, control arm swaps, and brake upgrades. Budget is around $2000 for tools. Looking for brand recommendations too — is Snap-on worth it or should I go with OTC, Mac Tools, or just Harbor Freight for the big items?
Seeing lots of fitment mistakes from incorrect backspacing measurements. Here's the foolproof method: lay your wheel face down on a flat surface. Place a straight edge across the back of the wheel. Measure from the straight edge down to the mounting face. That's your backspacing. For most classic muscle cars running wide tires you want 4.5-5.5 inches in the rear. For fronts usually 5-5.5 inches.
Just finished mini tubbing my 71 Chevelle and documented every step with photos. Total time was about 18 hours spread over 3 weekends. Tools needed: welder, angle grinder, measuring tape, marker, floor jack. I moved the framerails back 4 inches each side and now fit 335 tires without any fender modification. The key is taking your time with measurements before cutting anything. Happy to post more photos or answer questions.
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